The
following is a pictorial on my
sharpening technique and service. This
technique I've used on all of my swords,
and will develop a strong, long lasting
edge, that is ideal for cutting the most
common of targets.
If you have
never sharpened a sword before, here are
some words of advice; you should
practice! There shouldn't be any dull
knives in your house. When you're ready
for a sword, try a cheap wallhanger
first. Your first sharpening won't go
perfect, I promise, and you don't want
to ruin that fine new sword you just
purchased.
You'll need
to adjust your sharpening angle
depending on the thickness of the blade,
but most sword edges are between 30 to
35 degrees. An example would be the Darksword Norman, I gave it a 25 degree
angle to compensate for the thickness of
the blade. This allowed it to cut like a
sword, rather than hit like a bat.
The
technique remains the same however, it
is just a matter of determining the
angle which best fits your blade profile
type.
Good luck,
and be careful!
Click on the image below for an
example of a properly sharpened edge using the
exact technique shown below.
Below you see: A sword! A Nicholson Course File,
adjustable magnetic filing system by EdgeCrafter Diamond Sharpener/Files, AccuSharp Knife Sharpener
(An alternative to the Accusharp is the Smith's Knife Sharpener,
which I've used personally with great success,
and now personally prefer), a 30 degree reference block,
automotive sanding paper with 600, 1000, and
2000 grit. The coaster is to hold your drink,
you'll need it. Also, I want to emphasize using
some protective gloves. More times than not,
you'll cut yourself during maintenance of your
sword, by taking for granted the simplicity of
your routine. But especially during sharpening,
because you run your hand(s) up and down the
blade numerous times, and one slip is all it
takes!
This is how I clamp the sword
to the workbench. I use a rag over and under the
blade to prevent scratching, and I clamp a stick
to extend over the tip to keep it from moving
around. To sharpen the other side, I reverse the
layout.
Using the course file, I
establish the edge. I rotate the sword from side
to side to make sure I take even amounts of
steel off of each side. By using my reference
block, I can determine what my angle is, and if
I need to adjust. With practice, maintaining an
angle throughout the stroke should remain
consistent. Without consistence, your edge will
suffer.
Same procedure, only this is
using the magnetic diamond files. At this point,
you should be determining how evenly shaved your
4 sides are, and in some cases some blades can
have thicker sections down the length of the
sword that cause your edges not
to meet. You should work these small areas over
with the most course file on your diamond file
set (unless they are thick enough to use the
Nicholson file in these areas). This is a grade below the Nicholson course file, and
helps you more gently even the edge(s) out.
After 5 to 10 good strokes per side, switch to the
medium grade diamond file and begin the
'smoothing' of the edge (10 to 15 strokes per
side). You now want to
eliminate the grooves created by the more course
files. The medium file will do most of the work,
followed by the fine file, which in itself will
create an ideal looking edge. Use the fine file
until you reach a smooth 'sheen' throughout the
edge.
Clamping the sword securely so
it doesn't move, I run the accusharp over the
edge to eliminate any uneven edge, and form a
long, straight line. With a well filed edge, you
should only have to run the sharpener over the
blade 3 to 4 times with medium to light
pressure, each side. The idea here is to define
the edge, not carve out a new one.
Final step, I use automotive
sandpaper (3-steps of 600, 1000, and 2000 grit)
to polish the newly formed edge to create a
nice, clean look. Not necessary for performance,
but merely a cosmetic touch!
Final emphasis on
the geometry of the blade
It is important that
you take equal amounts of metal off of each side
of the blade, and that the edge runs precisely
down the middle. If it wavers, or is closer to
one side than the other, you will get
inconsistent cutting results. You want to
achieve an equal angle on both sides, with a
smooth, long, straight edge running down the
middle. If you're getting inconsistent results
after sharpening, check your geometry of the
edge.
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property of Arms of Valor or have been
used with permission. Use of these
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permission of Arms of Valor, Ltd. or
their original creator. Copyright 2007
Disclaimer
Swords of Valor,
Arms of Valor, Ltd., its employees,
associated companies assumes no
responsibility for injury, damage or
loss incurred by use of any merchandise
sold on this site or in our hard copy
catalogs. Compliance to local , state
and federal laws and/or statutes is the
responsibility of the purchaser.
Weapons, replica or live steel, will not
be sold to individuals under the age of
18 without permission or consent of a
parent or guardian. Purchase of
merchandise from Arms of Valor, Ltd.
implies agreement to the above
statements by purchaser.
,
adjustable magnetic filing system by 
, 
,
which I've used personally with great success,
and now personally prefer)
, a 30 degree reference block,
automotive sanding paper with 600, 1000, and
2000 grit. The coaster is to hold your drink,
you'll need it. Also, I want to emphasize using
some protective gloves. More times than not,
you'll cut yourself during maintenance of your
sword, by taking for granted the simplicity of
your routine. But especially during sharpening,
because you run your hand(s) up and down the
blade numerous times, and one slip is all it
takes!
